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Aside from its unique geologic origins, the Farallones reside in a biologically significant location. The islands are situated just six miles east of the continental slope; a distinct bathymetrical feature where the relatively shallow 500 foot continental shelf drops dramatically and abruptly into the 6,000 plus foot abyssal plain. As you can watch in a glass of fine silt, particles denser than water eventually settle on the bottom, including biologically important nutrients such as phosphates and nitrates in the ocean which settle on the seafloor. The California coast is renowned for its strong northwesterly winds that occur predominately in the months of spring; winds that drive a phenomenon along the continental slope known as upwelling. Upwelling essentially is a horizontal bottom up current that drawls deep nutrient rich water up to the photic zone near the surface, in reach of tiny single celled algae and other phytoplankton which use these nutrients to drive photosynthesis. Phytoplankton are the basis of the marine food web (aside from deep dwelling extremophiles which rely on chemosynthesis of methane gas expelled from ocean vents), and just like gazelles grazing on the grasslands of Africa, small zooplankton (copepods, larval stages of vertebrates and invertebrates, and jellies to name a few) graze on phytoplankton as they comb through sunlit surface waters of the temperate oceans. Thus the close proximity of the Farallones to the productive phytoplankton enriched currents welling up from the continental slope, provide an important habitat for open ocean travelers like seabirds to rest, feed, and rear their young.
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Although well known by the wildlife for millions of years, the Farallon Islands were only occasionally visible to native North American peoples. Cloaked in fog and mystery they remained untouched up until the 16th century, when they were eventually ‘discovered’ by Sir Francis Drake in 1579 (then just Francis Drake as he was knighted in 1581), during his second circumnavigation of the globe. It didn’t take long for Europeans and the subsequent rebels of the infant American colonies to realize the potential for economic exploitation of the islands natural resources. Russians established a sealing station on Southeast Farallon Island in 1812, harvesting 1,200 to 1,500 fur seals annually for 30 years, until the operation was eventually abandoned due to a declining yield and pressure from the Americans who eventually conquered the land of California from the Spanish in 1846. California became a state of the union in 1850, with the Farallon Islands included within the city boundaries of San Francisco. Although the seal populations were virtually exterminated, many nesting seabirds persisted; in particular the Common Murre, which proved to be of important economic value to the booming population of the egg-deprived citizens of San Fran following the gold rush. Apparently there was a shortage of chickens in those days, with the Common Murre and its single rich-orange yolk filled egg supplying the demand for omelets, cakes, and overall protein.
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The extensive egg harvesting and general occupation of the Farallones by a select group of San Franciscan’s had a massively negative impact on the islands nesting seabird populations. Along with the current modern impacts of overfishing, global fluctuations in climate, and increased ocean temperatures, seabird populations not just on the Farallones but worldwide are experiencing the strain of human influences on the environment. It is for these and other factors that in 1968, Point Reyes Bird Observatory (PRBO) biologists first began monitoring the recovery and in some cases seasonal decline of the 12 species of nesting seabirds on the Farallones. This ultimately brings us to the immediate present, where in a few days, I along with a few other PRBO volunteers will carry on the traditions and legacy of this unique history of the Farallon Islands…and likely cake our fowl weather gear with many depositional layers of bird droppings.
More to come on the research ahead, I’ll wait until I experience the island for myself before I write any further.
I'm looking forward to reading your posts and learning about the island--what an experience!
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